Discovering the Rich History and Flavors of Gyeongju, Korea

Gyeongju is a city steeped in rich history, boasting an array of archaeological sites that offer a glimpse into Korea's ancient past. With its peaceful surroundings and scenic views of the river bordered by mountains, the atmosphere in Gyeongju is reminiscent of Kyoto, Japan.

This was my first visit to this fascinating city I discovered thanks to social media. Our first stop on arrival was of course to hunt for some food. After an unfortunate bout of food poisoning that led to a night of spewing my guts out, we were left feeling incredibly ravenous. We came across an interesting restaurant serving soy bean soup called kongguk. The dish had a very unique taste, consisting of a hot broth, made from a mixture of sweet and salty thickened ground soy bean topped with an uncooked egg yolk, glutinous rice balls and finished off with a sprinkling of sesame seeds on top. In addition, we ordered a bowl of delicious Sundubu-jjigae (soft tofu stew) served with a variety of side dishes including fried fish and sticky red rice. The spicy tofu stew was certainly a perfect remedy to the gastroenteritis we suffered. 

                                                                                                                                                             

Next stop was a visit to Gyeongju National Museum, which turned out to be one of the most impressive museums I've ever visited. The exhibits were expertly curated, telling the story of the rise and fall of the Silla Kingdom over a period of more than a thousand years. I highly recommend taking a trip to the museum before exploring the rest of the city, as it will provide you with valuable context and deepen your understanding and appreciation for Gyeongju's rich cultural heritage.

One of my favourite things to do when visiting a new city is to explore the local markets, which always offers a unique insight into the country and the ability to soak up the vibrant atmosphere filled with different types of sights and smells. During our visit to the market, I came across many ajumma (middle-aged Korean women) selling vegetables and strawberries along the roadside.The prices of the strawberries varied, ranging from 5000 to 10000 KRW per kilo depending on their size. It was difficult to decide which vendor to buy from, but we finally settled on one and decided to take the chance.

The smallest strawberries were only 5000 KRW, and to my surprise, they turned out to be the juiciest and sweetest strawberries I've ever tasted. However, it did make me wonder how these vendors managed to eke out a living, as most of them were selling very similar types of food. I certainly felt that it was a great experience to try the local produce and support the local economy at the same time.

During our trip, we visited a local coffee shop with gorgeous Japanese-inspired architecture, complete with wooden paneling and white walls. However, our excitement quickly turned to disappointment when we took a sip of our coffee and found it to be burnt. We also came across a elegant pastry shop that looked like it had been plucked straight out of a food magazine. Our mouths watered as we perused the delicate cakes on display, but our taste buds were left unfulfilled as the offerings lacked the intricate flavours we had come to expect from Seoul's pastry shops. It was a reminder that looks can be deceiving, and that even the most stunning of appearances can't make up for lacklustre taste.

One evening, we ventured off to have some Korean BBQ at a highly rated spot on google maps, however we weren't too impressed as the quality and portions of meat provided did not commensurate with the price charged. To make matters worse, my brother was upset that he had to grill the meat himself. He was feeling very stressed as he was worried he might under or overcook the meat and would gladly have paid extra for someone else to cook it. We left unsatisfied as our appetites were not satiated. 

On our way back we stumbled upon a famous restaurant Sukyeong Sidang (숙영식당) by chance serving pajeon, a type of Korean pancake. The green onion pancake dish was impeccable; crispy and fragrant with just the right amount of seasoning. We washed it down with homemade dong dong ju, (a type of rice wine) that perfectly complemented the flavours of the dish. The atmosphere of the restaurant was very cosy as it is housed in an old hanok (traditional Korean house). The friendly owner even came and chatted with us, making us feel like we were dining at a friend's house.  We also struck up a brief conversation with some Korean guys at the next table, who kindly offered us a mushroom omelette to try after I inquisitively enquired about their order. Even though the pajeon was slightly pricey for a vegetarian dish, I felt it was worth the money as it was delicious.

All in all, I was left slightly underwhelmed with the food scene in Gyeong-ju perhaps our expectations were simply too high, having been spoiled by the incredible culinary experiences we had during our time in Jeju Island. Do bear in mind that everyone's tastes and preferences are different or maybe we went to the wrong places, and just because we didn't find the food in Gyeong-ju to be exceptional doesn't mean that others won't enjoy it. It's all part of the adventure and discovery of exploring new places and experiencing a different culture.

From Volcanoes to Beaches: The Ultimate 6 day trip Jeju Island Adventure

On a last-minute whim, I decided to join my brother on a trip back to Korea in March, as I was delighted to find reduced flights from London to Seoul with Lufthansa. The flight was comfortable, with an adequate-sized TV screen, decent food, and the Korean food option was particularly delicious. We were served beef bulgogi with rice, and there was a good selection of alcoholic spirits available, as well as snacks in between meals. 

However, the journey was quite exhausting, as I had to transit at Munich before finally arriving at Incheon airport in Seoul. As luck would have it, the guy sitting next to me developed a very unpleasant body odour as the flight progressed. I tried my best to ignore it, but it was impossible not to notice. The smell was so strong that it stimulated my gag reflex, and I had to hold back the urge to vomit. It was a challenging situation, and I could not wait to land in Seoul !! 

A helpful tip for future travellers would be to bring along some snacks as I only received proper food on my second flight and was starving for most of the day. Upon arrival in Seoul, I faced a long queue at immigration, which took approximately an hour to clear. Don't forget to apply for a k-ETA visa (10,000 won) online prior to departure, and double-check the visa requirements in case they have changed.

After clearing immigration, I found that the transportation system in Seoul was very well-connected and integrated. It was easy to take the train from Incheon airport to Gimpo airport, which only took about 30-40 minutes. Once at Gimpo airport, I managed to book a last minute onward flight to Jeju island. I had been apprehensive about booking earlier due to possible flight delays, but I found that there wasn't much of a price difference booking the flight last minute. There are plenty of flights to Jeju Island, as it's a popular tourist destination for locals. 

Getting around Jeju island proved to be more challenging, as the bus transport system is not very well-connected, and taking a tour can be quite expensive. So, my brother and I opted to rent a car. We were picked up from outside the airport and driven to the car rental spot, which was very convenient. However, I do have to warn you about the drivers on the island - they can be quite crazy. One time, an old lady driver was so aggressive at an intersection and just refused to give way. In addition, in Korea, they drive on the right side, therefore it can be confusing if you are not used to it.

Despite the driving, the food on Jeju Island was amazing. I highly recommend trying the live octopus and abalone, which is lightly cooked in a hotpot and served immediately to you. The longer it cooks, the sweeter and more concentrated the soup becomes, and the remnant soup is the most scrumptious you’ve ever tasted. 

As a foodie, I couldn't resist searching on google for a breakfast spot the next day, and that's when I stumbled upon Bakery Cafe 70 which was on the way to the waterfall. The reviews were glowing, and I knew I had to check it out for myself. From the moment I stepped inside, the aroma of freshly baked pastries mixed with freshly roasted coffee beans filled my nose, and my mouth began to water. The display case was filled with an array of tempting treats, from croissants to danishes to cinnamon pastries. We ordered a creamy cafe latte to accompany the pastries, and it was the perfect pairing. 

There are a lot of scenic waterfalls to visit on Jeju island, some of them are rather steep and rocky, however they are all very tourist friendly and clean. While hiking to the waterfalls, visitors will appreciate the well-designed wooden paths and viewing platforms. However, I felt that the experience lacked some authenticity, as the platforms are often positioned far from the actual waterfalls, and swimming is usually prohibited. Despite this, there is one waterfall that stands out from the rest - Jeongbang. What makes Jeongbang unique is that it cascades directly into the ocean, creating a stunning display of water spraying into the air. This spectacle is enhanced by the sunlight reflecting off the water, producing a beautiful rainbow. It truly is a sight to behold.

Additionally, we found an amazing restaurant 정직한돈 중문점 on Google Maps that served black pork. The pork was really tender and juicy, with none of the strong stench normally associated with pork. The lady grilled thick slabs of pork before expertly cutting it into bite sized chunks with scissors. She also taught us various methods of eating including wrapping the meat in seaweed and dipping it in various delicious condiments including Korean bbq sauce, special salt and also a unique anchovy sauce which is placed in a small metal bowl on the edge of the grill to keep warm. Accompanied with some refreshing Makgeolli (rice wine), it was easily one of the best meals we had on the island! If you're a food enthusiast, we highly recommend visiting Jeju Island for an unforgettable culinary experience.

Our next stop on Jeju Island was O’sulloc Tea House. At first, it seemed like a bit of a tourist trap with rows of tea plantations that people mainly use as an Instagram backdrop. Despite the crowds, we patiently queued up to try their Matcha ice cream, Matcha milkshake, and Matcha cake. While the ice cream and milkshake were just average, the cake stood out with its delicious cream cheese filling. Aside from the tea house, there is also an attached Innisfree shop and cafe. The shop offers a unique experience where you can customize and design your own soap, in addition to purchasing Innisfree beauty products. If you present a foreign passport at checkout, you can even receive a further tourist discount.

Next, we ended up at Arte museum, another tourist sucking instagram trap. The museum is essentially set in a warehouse using projectors to showcase a range of visuals, including waterfalls, gardens, safari and beaches for an immersive experience. However, the real highlight was the Van Gogh projection. The impressionist art looked absolutely stunning when projected onto the walls. The museum is well organised, with lockers available for visitors to store their belongings while exploring the exhibits. However, like many other visitors, we fell for one of the extra experiences and paid extra for a drink after our visit. The tea drink was adorned with moving flowers projected onto it, which was a unique touch, but ultimately not worth the additional cost. (Price for the museum - 17,000 korean won, including drink 20,000 won.)

Later that night, we stayed in a glamping tent with an attached toilet and heated flooring, which was a unique experience. Originally, my brother had booked us a caravan, but the kind owner upgraded us to the tent instead, explaining that the caravan could be too chilly during spring.The tent was cozy and comfortable, with all the amenities we needed. It was an unforgettable experience, and the heated flooring made it especially luxurious. We were grateful to the owner for his generosity in upgrading us. 

One thing that bothered me during our stay at various hotels in Jeju Island was the fact that they only provided one pillow for us to sleep on which was very uncomfortable. On the other hand, we appreciated the hotels' commitment to environmental sustainability. They did not provide disposable toiletries, opting instead for refillable bottles of shower gel, shampoo, and conditioner. While this is a small inconvenience, it is a commendable effort to reduce waste and protect the environment.

Our trip to Jeju Island was not only filled with natural beauty but also some amazing coffee shops with unique designs and great views. We stumbled upon a coffee shop with a retro-industrial mix that had a cozy atmosphere. The décor was reminiscent of the past, but with a modern twist. Another coffee shop we discovered was situated in a secluded area. The owner was a warm and friendly guy who took us up to the rooftop and showed us breathtaking views of the ocean.What made these coffee shops even more memorable was the opportunity to try different types of coffee. We were able to sample drip coffee and Einspänner (espresso topped with whipped cream), which were both delicious. We even discovered a coffee shop that served homemade baked goods, including a mouthwatering freshly baked Portuguese tart and a delectable chocolate matcha cookie.

Next we visited Pyoseon Beach, as my brother was craving tonkatsu. While waiting for the restaurant to open, we came across a famous porridge and noodle shop 당케올레국수, as we were drawn in by the wafting aroma of sesame oil. We were recommended by the bomal kalguksu and the pork noodles by the friendly Chinese waitress who worked there. The bomal kalguksu was a mixture of noodles and porridge in a thick broth filled with top shells, which was quite unique. However we were severely underwhelmed with the pork noodles which was served as it was very ordinary and you could probably cook it better at home. 

For those interested in visiting Seongsan Ichulbong, a UNESCO site, we highly recommend going early to catch the sunrise and getting in for free, if you go later it's only costs 2000 won for entrance fee. The volcanic crater offers stunning views of the ocean, and it's an excellent spot for aerial photography with a drone. After the hike, we stopped at a fantastic seafood shop that served raw sashimi and a variety of other seafood at a reasonable price of 25,000 won. The abalone fried rice was especially delicious, cooked in fragrant sesame oil and served in a stone pot. Unfortunately, we both ended up with food poisoning afterward, which put a damper on our experience.

Thankfully, we were staying in a service apartment that had a washing machine, which allowed us to recuperate and do our laundry at the same time. We even found a nearby Daiso where we could purchase a mesh wash bag for our laundry. Despite the food poisoning, we still had a memorable time on the island, and I would still highly recommend that restaurant! I think we were just unlucky, perhaps we accidentally consumed a parasite in the uncooked fish. 

Our next stop…..Gyeongju. 

Tip: it’s a lot cheaper to fly from Jeju island to Daegu rather than Busan. You can then take a bus (7500 won) from Daegu to Gyeongju.